How To Remove Bicycle Pedals

A practical step-by-step guide to how to remove bicycle pedals, including preparation, instructions, common issues, tips, and next steps.

Published 2026-07-17 ยท Updated 2026-07-23

How To Remove Bicycle Pedals cover image

How To Remove Bicycle Pedals

This guide explains how to approach how to remove bicycle pedals, including the preparation, practical steps, common mistakes, and final checks that help you finish with confidence.

15-30 mins Time needed
Easy to Moderate Difficulty
Stripped Threads Watch out for

Before You Start

Before you begin, gathering the correct tools and preparing your bike will save you time and prevent frustration. A little preparation goes a long way in ensuring a smooth and successful pedal removal.

Check first: Always double-check which type of tool your pedals require (pedal wrench/spanner or hex key) before you start. More critically, always remember that the left (non-drive side) pedal loosens clockwise, and the right (drive side) pedal loosens anti-clockwise. Reversing this can strip threads and damage your crank arms.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully to remove your bicycle pedals safely and efficiently. Paying attention to detail, especially the thread direction, is key to preventing damage.

Quick Reference

Common Problems When You Remove Bicycle Pedals

Even with careful preparation, you might encounter a few common hurdles. Knowing how to troubleshoot these issues can save you a lot of time and potential damage to your bike.

Seized Pedals

This is perhaps the most common and frustrating issue. Pedals can seize due to rust, corrosion, or simply being left on for many years without removal. The old grease inside the threads can dry out and essentially glue the pedal in place. If your pedal doesn't budge after applying initial force, your first step should be to apply generous amounts of penetrating oil (like WD-40 or GT85) to the area where the pedal spindle meets the crank arm. Let it soak for at least 15-30 minutes, or even longer for extremely stubborn cases. Tapping the pedal spindle with a rubber mallet can also help the oil work its way into the threads.

Rounded Hex Key Fitting or Spanner Flats

If your tool isn't fully engaged or if you apply force incorrectly, you risk rounding the internal hex fitting or the external spanner flats of the pedal spindle. Once rounded, the tool can no longer grip effectively. To prevent this, always ensure your tool fits snugly and is pushed fully into the fitting. If it happens, you might need a different approach: try a slightly smaller hex key if the fit is just a little loose, or look for specialized tools designed for extraction. In severe cases, a bike shop might need to drill out the pedal or use a thread repair kit, which can be costly.

Stripped Threads on the Crank Arm

This is a serious problem that usually occurs when a pedal is cross-threaded during installation (not removal), or if excessive force is applied in the wrong direction during removal attempts. If you feel grinding or binding when trying to loosen a pedal and realise you might have been turning the wrong way, stop immediately. Stripped threads mean the helical grooves inside the crank arm are damaged, preventing any pedal from screwing in securely. Minor damage might be repairable by a bike shop using a tap to re-thread the crank arm, but often, a severely stripped crank arm means the entire crank arm needs replacement, which can be expensive.

Tool Slipping Off

A common cause of scraped knuckles and frustration is the wrench slipping off the pedal. This often happens if the wrench isn't held firmly, if it's at an awkward angle, or if the pedal flats are dirty or worn. Always ensure the wrench is fully engaged and perpendicular to the pedal spindle. Use a firm grip and apply force smoothly rather than with sudden jerks. Wearing gloves can also improve grip and protect your hands.

Advanced Tips for How to Remove Bicycle Pedals

For those particularly stubborn pedals or to make the job easier, here are a few advanced techniques that can be very effective.

Using a "Cheater Bar" for Extra Leverage

If a pedal is seriously stuck, your standard pedal wrench or hex key might not provide enough leverage. A "cheater bar" is simply a length of pipe (like a piece of steel tubing) that slides over the handle of your wrench. This effectively lengthens the handle, dramatically increasing the leverage you can apply. More leverage means less force needed from your body to achieve the same turning power. Be cautious, however: more leverage also means a higher risk of stripping threads if you're turning in the wrong direction, so double-check that pedal thread direction!

Tapping the Wrench with a Mallet

Sometimes, a shock load can be more effective than continuous pressure. Once your wrench is firmly seated on the pedal, try giving the end of the wrench handle a sharp tap with a rubber mallet or the palm of your hand. This sudden impact can break the initial bond of a seized thread more effectively than a slow, steady push. Always ensure your grip on the wrench is secure before attempting this.

Heating the Crank Arm (Last Resort)

Heat causes metal to expand. Because the crank arm is typically made of aluminium and the pedal spindle is steel, heating the aluminium crank arm can cause it to expand slightly more than the steel spindle, potentially freeing the threads. You can use a heat gun or a hairdryer on a high setting to gently heat the area around the pedal spindle on the crank arm. Apply heat for a minute or two, then immediately try to loosen the pedal. Be careful not to overheat the area or damage paint/finishes. This should be a last resort and performed with extreme caution, as excessive heat can damage the crank arm's temper or bearings.

Regular Pedal Maintenance

The best advanced tip is proactive maintenance. Removing your pedals at least once a year, cleaning the threads, and applying a fresh layer of bicycle grease before reinstallation will prevent them from seizing in the first place. This simple routine will make future pedal removals quick and easy, avoiding all the troubleshooting steps for seized pedals.

Using Dedicated Pedal Wrenches

While a standard 15mm open-ended spanner can work, a dedicated pedal wrench is often thinner and has a longer handle. The thinner profile allows it to fit into tight spaces between the pedal and the crank arm, especially for older or less expensive pedals. The longer handle provides superior leverage compared to a shorter spanner or standard adjustable wrench, making removal much less strenuous and reducing the risk of slipping.

How To Remove Bicycle Pedals FAQ

How often should I remove my bicycle pedals?

It's generally a good idea to remove, clean, and re-grease your pedals at least once a year. This prevents them from seizing in the crank arms, making future removal much easier for maintenance, replacement, or packing for travel. If you ride in wet or dirty conditions frequently, you might consider doing it every six months.

Can I use any wrench to remove bicycle pedals?

While some standard 15mm open-ended spanners might fit, it's highly recommended to use a dedicated 15mm pedal wrench if your pedals have spanner flats. Pedal wrenches are specifically designed with thinner heads and longer handles to provide better fit and leverage. For pedals that use an internal hex fitting, you'll need the correct size 6mm or 8mm hex key.

What should I do if my pedals are stuck and won't turn?

If your pedals are stuck, your first action should be to apply penetrating oil to the threads and let it soak for a good amount of time (15-30 minutes minimum). Then, ensure you're turning in the correct loosening direction (clockwise for left, anti-clockwise for right) and apply firm, steady pressure, possibly with a "cheater bar" for extra leverage. As a last resort, gentle heat applied to the crank arm can sometimes help, but proceed with caution.

Why do bicycle pedals have different thread directions?

Bicycle pedals have different thread directions to prevent them from unscrewing themselves while you ride. The left pedal has a left-hand (reverse) thread, while the right pedal has a standard right-hand thread. This setup ensures that the natural forces from pedalling (precession) tighten the pedals, keeping them securely attached to the crank arms.

Do I need to grease the threads when installing new pedals?

Yes, absolutely. Always apply a thin, even layer of bicycle-specific grease to the threads of the new pedal spindle before screwing it into the crank arm. This simple step is crucial for preventing the pedals from seizing in the future, making them much easier to remove next time, and helps prevent corrosion.

Final Checklist for How to Remove Bicycle Pedals

Before you consider the job completely done, run through this quick checklist to ensure everything is squared away and ready for your next ride or task.

  • Tools Cleaned and Stored: All wrenches, hex keys, and other tools should be wiped clean of grease and dirt, then returned to their proper storage location.
  • Work Area Tidied: Clear away any rags, penetrating oil cans, or other debris from your workspace to maintain a clean and safe environment.
  • Pedals Stored or Replaced: If you removed the pedals for storage or travel, ensure they are securely put away. If you're installing new pedals, make sure they are properly greased and tightened according to manufacturer specifications (typically 30-40 Nm, but check your pedal's instructions).
  • Crank Arm Threads Inspected: Double-check that the crank arm threads are clean and undamaged. Any signs of cross-threading or stripping should be addressed before new pedals are installed.
  • Disposal of Waste: Properly dispose of any oil-soaked rags or used cleaning materials according to local guidelines.