How To Get Pedals Off A Bike

This guide explains how to approach how to get pedals off a bike, including the preparation, practical steps, common mistakes, and final checks that help you finish with confidence.

15-30 minutes Time needed

Moderate Difficulty

Incorrect Thread Direction Watch out for

Before You Start

Before you begin the process of removing your pedals, taking a moment to gather the right tools and understand the basic principles will save you significant frustration and prevent damage to your bike's components. Proper preparation is key to a smooth process, especially when dealing with parts that might be tightly fastened or have been in place for a long time.

What You Need

Safety, Timing, or Context Checks

Understanding a few critical points before you apply force can prevent damage and injury. Pedals have a unique design that means they don't loosen in the same direction, which is the most common pitfall for new mechanics.

Check first: Always double-check the pedal thread direction before applying significant force. Attempting to loosen a pedal in the wrong direction will only tighten it further and can permanently damage the crank arm threads, leading to costly repairs. "Loosen towards the rear of the bike" is the golden rule for both pedals.

Step-by-Step Instructions

With your tools ready and the crucial knowledge of thread direction firmly in mind, you're prepared to tackle pedal removal. Follow these steps carefully to ensure a smooth and safe process.

Quick Reference

Common Problems When You Get Pedals Off A Bike

Even with careful preparation, you might encounter a few common hurdles when trying to remove bike pedals. Knowing how to troubleshoot these issues can save you a trip to the bike shop.

Pedals Are Stuck or Seized

This is perhaps the most frequent problem, often caused by dirt, water ingress, or simply a lack of grease when the pedals were last installed. If a pedal won't budge with firm pressure, here's what to try:

Penetrating Oil: Spray a generous amount of penetrating oil (like WD-40 or GT85) directly onto the threads where the pedal meets the crank arm. Let it soak for at least 15-30 minutes, or even overnight for very stubborn pedals. The oil helps to break down rust and corrosion.
Increased Leverage: If your pedal wrench or hex key isn't long enough, you can carefully use a "cheater bar" – a length of pipe slipped over the end of the tool handle. This dramatically increases leverage. Exercise caution, as too much force can damage components or cause slips.
Shock Treatment: Sometimes, a sharp, sudden blow can break a bond better than sustained pressure. With your tool firmly seated, give the end of the handle a sharp tap with a rubber mallet or the palm of your hand.
Heat (Extreme Cases Only): For extremely seized pedals, careful application of heat to the crank arm (not the pedal itself) can cause the aluminium to expand, potentially loosening the steel pedal axle. Use a heat gun or small torch with extreme caution, avoiding paint, plastic, or carbon parts. This is usually a last resort for experienced mechanics.

Stripped Threads on Crank Arm or Pedal

Stripped threads are a serious issue, often resulting from cross-threading during installation or attempting to force a pedal in the wrong direction. If the threads are stripped, the pedal won't tighten properly and will likely come loose during riding.

Prevention is Key: Always start threading pedals by hand to ensure they're going in straight. Never force a pedal; if it doesn't turn easily, back it out and restart. Applying grease is also vital.
Minor Damage: For very minor thread damage, a bike shop might be able to chase (re-cut) the threads in the crank arm with a special tap.
Major Damage: Severely stripped crank arm threads usually mean the crank arm itself needs to be replaced, which can be a costly repair. Stripped pedal threads mean the pedal needs replacement.

Rounded Hex Key Bolt or Wrench Flats

This happens when an ill-fitting or worn tool slips off the bolt head or wrench flats while force is applied, grinding down the corners and making it impossible to get a grip.

Use High-Quality Tools: Always use good quality, unworn hex keys or pedal wrenches that fit precisely.
Ensure Full Engagement: Make sure the hex key is fully inserted or the pedal wrench is fully seated before applying any force.
Alternative Grip: If the hex key slot is rounded, sometimes a Torx bit (one size larger than the hex key) can be hammered into the rounded slot to provide a grip. This will destroy the hex slot but might get the pedal off.
Grinding a New Flat: For severely rounded wrench flats, a metal file can sometimes be used to carefully create new, albeit smaller, flats for the wrench to grip. This requires precision and patience.
Drilling/Extraction: In the worst cases, the pedal axle may need to be drilled out or extracted by a professional, which risks damaging the crank arm.

Applying Force in the Wrong Direction

As mentioned, this is the most common mistake. Attempting to loosen the left pedal anti-clockwise or the right pedal clockwise will only tighten them further and can damage the threads.

Re-check the Rule: Before applying significant force, always pause and double-check: "Loosen both pedals by pushing the wrench handle towards the rear of the bike."
Visualise: Imagine pedalling backwards. The direction the pedal would move relative to the crank is the direction to loosen it.

Advanced Tips for How To Get Pedals Off A Bike

Once you've mastered the basics, these advanced tips can help make the process even smoother, prevent future issues, and improve your overall bike maintenance skills.

Understanding Torque Settings

While not strictly necessary for removal, knowing about torque settings is crucial for reinstallation. Pedals should be tightened to a specific torque (usually 35-40 Nm or 25-30 ft-lbs for most steel axles into aluminium cranks). Over-tightening can strip threads, while under-tightening can cause creaking or lead to the pedal loosening during a ride.

Torque Wrench: For precise tightening, use a torque wrench with the appropriate pedal socket or hex key adapter. This ensures components are secured correctly without damage.
"Snug Plus a Quarter Turn": If you don't have a torque wrench, a common heuristic is to tighten the pedal until it's snug, then apply an additional quarter turn of firm pressure. This is less precise but generally sufficient when combined with grease.

Using a Cheater Bar Safely

A cheater bar (a length of pipe over your wrench handle) significantly increases leverage. This can be a game-changer for stuck pedals, but it also increases the risk of damage if misused.

Gradual Pressure: Apply force gradually and smoothly. Sudden jerks with a cheater bar can cause the tool to slip, potentially damaging the bike or causing injury.
Monitor Flex: Watch for any signs of the tool or crank arm flexing excessively. If you see significant flex, stop and reassess.
Tool Quality: Only use a high-quality, robust pedal wrench or hex key with a cheater bar. Cheap tools can bend or snap under the increased load.

Periodic Pedal Maintenance

Regular removal and regreasing of your pedals are the best preventative measures against seized pedals.

Annual Check: Consider removing, cleaning, and greasing your pedals at least once a year, or more frequently if you ride in wet, muddy, or salty conditions.
Before Long Storage: If you're storing your bike for an extended period, especially in a damp environment, removing and greasing the pedals can prevent them from seizing during storage.
Post-Wash Care: After heavy pressure washing or prolonged exposure to rain, water can ingress into the pedal threads. A quick re-grease can mitigate this.

Consider Threadlocker for Specific Situations

While grease is standard, some specific situations might warrant the use of a mild threadlocker (e.g., blue Loctite).

Creaky Pedals: If pedals consistently creak despite proper greasing and torque, a small amount of threadlocker can sometimes help damp vibrations.
High-Vibration Riding: For downhill mountain biking or other high-vibration disciplines, some riders prefer a mild threadlocker in addition to grease for extra security, though grease is usually sufficient for most.
Always Use Grease First: If using threadlocker, still apply a thin layer of grease underneath. Threadlocker acts as a bonding agent, but grease prevents metal-on-metal corrosion and makes future removal easier even with the threadlocker.

How To Get Pedals Off A Bike FAQ

Why do bike pedals have different thread directions?

Pedals have different threads (right-hand for the drive side, left-hand for the non-drive side) to prevent them from unscrewing themselves while you ride. The force you apply during pedalling tends to tighten the pedals on their respective sides, which is a clever design to keep them secure.

Can I use a regular spanner instead of a pedal wrench?

While a regular 15mm open-ended spanner might fit the wrench flats, it's generally not recommended. Pedal wrenches are specifically designed with longer handles and a thinner head to provide better leverage and access the narrow gap between the pedal and crank arm. A standard spanner is often too thick and too short, making the job harder and increasing the risk of rounded flats or scraped knuckles.

How often should I remove my pedals?

For most recreational riders, removing and re-greasing your pedals once a year is sufficient to prevent seizing. If you frequently ride in harsh conditions (rain, mud, snow, or near the sea), consider doing it more often, perhaps every 3-6 months. If you hear creaking from your pedals, it's also a good time to remove, clean, and re-grease them.

What kind of grease should I use for pedal threads?

A general-purpose bicycle grease, lithium grease, or marine grease is suitable. These types of grease provide good lubrication and corrosion protection, which is essential for preventing the steel pedal axle from seizing in the aluminium crank arm. Avoid using lightweight oils or assembly compounds that aren't specifically designed for this purpose.

What if I don't have a bike stand?

You can still remove pedals without a bike stand, though it requires a bit more care. You can lean your bike securely against a sturdy wall or post, ensuring it won't tip over. Alternatively, if removing the right pedal, place the bike on its left side on the ground. When removing the left pedal, place it on its right side. This way, the crank arm you are working on is stabilised by the ground, and you can apply downward pressure effectively.

Final Checklist for How To Get Pedals Off A Bike

Before considering the job complete, run through this quick checklist to ensure everything is in order and your bike is ready for its next steps, whether that's new pedals or a travel box.

Both Pedals Removed: Confirm both the right and left pedals are fully detached from their respective crank arms.
Crank Arm Threads Clean: Inspect the pedal threads inside both crank arms. Ensure they are free of old grease, dirt, and any minor debris. This is crucial for smooth reinstallation.
Pedal Axle Threads Clean: If you plan to reuse the pedals, wipe down their threads to remove old grease and grit. This prepares them for fresh grease upon reinstallation.
Tools Put Away: Clean your pedal wrench or hex keys and store them properly. A well-organised toolbox makes future tasks easier.
Waste Disposed Of: Properly dispose of any greasy rags or waste materials. Keep your workspace tidy.
Consider Next Steps: Are you installing new pedals? Packing your bike for travel? Cleaning the drivetrain further? Knowing your next action helps streamline your bike maintenance routine.
Record Maintenance (Optional): For diligent mechanics, making a note of when you last removed and greased your pedals can help track your bike's service history.